World's only professional surfer with doctorate leads groundbreaking coral reef research

SAN DIEGO, Calif. (FOX 5/KUSI) — Cliff Kapono, the only professional surfer in the world with a doctorate degree, is making waves in both surfing and science.

Much more is known about the surface of Mars than the seafloor of the ocean here on Earth. Kapono, a University of California San Diego graduate, and his Hilo-based research team are working hard to rewrite this story.

Kapono’s curiosity was natured in his hometown of Hilo, Hawai’i. The Big Island is home to the majority of the planet’s 13 ecosystems, sparking his fascination of nature.

When he graduated high school in 2005, only 50 native Hawaiians had ever earned doctorate degrees. Yet, a lot of infrastructure had been built across the island to support the elevation of native scientists, which encouraged Kapono’s pursuit of a doctorate in chemistry.

After earning his master’s degree from the University of Hawaii at Manoa, he had to decide whether or not to go to the mainland for his doctorate. He wrestled with the decision for a while, eventually embarking on a solo trip to Da Ainaz to reflect.

Despite fears of leaving home for the first time, he ultimately chose to pursue his studies in San Diego and moved a few months later.

In a VICE documentary, Kapono said he faced unexpected challenges. He explained that he was often reminded by San Diegans that he wasn’t from the mainland and regularly endured derogatory remarks. In Hawai’i, he says such insults would spark violence, but on the mainland they came without physical aggression — something that left him feeling confused.

Hawaiian surf culture is a simple break down of respect and the same set of values were not in place in San Diego, according to Kapono.

After 6 years in San Diego, he moved back to Hilo, which led to a life-changing relationship with Jaws and the co-founding of MEGA Lab. Today, his work is changing the way the science community thinks about coral reef and ocean conservation.

Applying the motto, “You can’t protect what you can’t see,” Kapono and his team at MEGA Lab create maps of coral reefs using the latest 3D imaging technology. By doing so, they turn the seafloor into digital models that can be explored on a phone, tablet or desktop.

This work is extremely important because coral reefs are essential for the survival of a range of life, including human life. They cover less than one percent of the ocean but are one of the most biodiverse ecosystems on the planet.

More than half of the oxygen is coming out of the ocean. Plus, coral reefs are the cause of the world’s best barreling waves.

Kapono’s path in professional surfing unfolded unexpectedly. He never set out to pursue surfing for more than a hobby, choosing to focus on science instead. But after earning his doctorate in chemistry, surfing and science merged naturally in his life, and he was able to be a part of professional surfing.

“For me, all of this is fun. I love studying ecosystems and technology just as much as I love getting barreled,” Kapono said. “Both pursuits seem kind of selfish in a way, because they give me so much joy. But the end of the day, if I couldn’t have both, I wouldn’t want any.”

That blend of passion has led to groundbreaking work, including his most recent project, Map to Adapt. The concept is simple — take a photo or make an observation and share it. MEGA Lab hopes to recruit 10,000 citizen scientists by the end of the year and one million by 2030.

MEGA Lab is a non-profit composed of a crew science researchers, artists writers, filmmakers, photographers, professors and professional surfers focused on coral reef systems and human environmental interaction.

Click here to learn more about MEGA Lab, and click here to watch VICE’s documentary that tells Kapono’s story and highlights his work.

“When you are exuding goodness, and doing good things, the reaction from that is going to be good. A benevolent cause always results in a benevolent effect. And that is how I see Cliff, and what he’s doing in his life right now,” said Tony Alva, a legendary skateboarder, entrepreneur and musician. “His work and surfing is going to result in a benevolent effect for people that come into contact with him.”