Santa Monica’s picturesque shoreline, deep blue ocean hues and swaying palm trees are about as close as Angelenos can get to the French Riviera without hopping on a plane. And on October 12, Oceana Santa Monica and 34th Floor Hospitality are bringing the flavors of the Côte d’Azur to the beach town with La Monique, a swanky eatery dedicated to classic French fare.
“Life is crazy and stressful, so I wanted to create a place where time sort of stops, even if only for a couple of hours,” Olivier Zardoni, CEO of 34th Floor Hospitality, tells Observer. “It’s so rare that people in Los Angeles take a real break with friends over a bottle of wine, without the phones and all of our other distractions. That’s what I want La Monique to be—a place to be present.” Whether for after-work drinks or an elegant sit-down dinner at sunset, La Monique encourages guests to embrace the slow and effortless side of life.
The restaurant’s prime location on Ocean Avenue offers a naturally beautiful setting, but designer Martin Brudnizki has upped the ante with bold and inviting interiors. Busy patterns extend from the floors to the pillows to the furniture, while a mirrored ceiling creates a funky reflection of the scene below. Most of the walls boast an emerald green marble backdrop adorned with abstract artwork and framed vintage photos, reminiscent of a Parisian brasserie. When the curtains are drawn, it’s easy to forget that you’re sitting just across the street from the Pacific Ocean. The intimate space hosts only 44 seats, and though the decor and design scream fancy, Zardoni is adamant that La Monique is a place to unwind and gather over high-end drinks and dishes.
The lounge-style seating is more relaxed and cozy than standard seated tables, but the most opulent—and unexpected—design factor can be admired in the bathrooms. A floor-to-ceiling mirror creates a flattering glow that frames a marble counter and copper sink, while textured, palm leaf-like walls pay homage to La Monique’s Mediterranean influences. “While we were working on the design and creating renderings, I realized, ‘Oh, this feels like a woman’s home,’” explains Zardoni. “I turned to my business partner and said, ‘I think a woman lives here.’ I pictured her as a madame.” And thus, the name La Monique was born.
For the food, La Monique maintains a traditional approach to French cuisine. “I wanted the menu to revolve around simplicity with flawless execution,” says Zardoni. “Lots of restaurants in L.A. do French food with a California twist, so I said, let’s just be authentic.” Leading the charge is chef David Fricaud, a French native who grew up in a small, countryside town outside of Paris. Fricaud learned the ins and outs of agriculture from an early age—his grandparents were farmers, and he grew up picking vegetables from his family’s garden, fishing with his father and spending time with the farm animals. However, it wasn’t until he became a fan of The Love Boat that he realized his passion for all things culinary. “When I was eight years old, I fell in love with the baked Alaska from The Love Boat,” Fricaud explains. “But I started to wonder, who makes the baked Alaska onboard? They always showed the captain, the doctor, the bartender, but never the chef. So, it was then that I discovered my dream of cooking.”
Upon graduating from culinary school, Fricaud worked in kitchens all over the world, with stints at Méridien in Abu Dhabi, Lafarques in Belgium and the Reef Oasis Blue Bay Resort in Egypt. Fricaud eventually fulfilled his dream of working as a chef on a boat, spending a year cooking on a luxury yacht in Canada. He returned to Paris and was a semi-finalist on Top Chef France in 2010. In 2016, he landed a gig at Pitchoun Bakery in Downtown Los Angeles before leading the kitchen at Malibu Beach Inn. Fricaud then made a career move to Las Vegas, where he worked with Lisa Vanderpump at Caesars Palace before eventually accepting the executive chef role at Scarpetta.
La Monique marks Fricaud’s return to Los Angeles, allowing him an opportunity to embrace traditional French cooking in one of the city’s most coveted neighborhoods. “Santa Monica seems like a small Riviera to me,” he says. “The design, the drinks and the food are all completely different from what already exists here, and I can’t wait to share it with our guests.”
In addition to extravagant seafood towers with tuna carpaccio and king crab, La Monique’s appetizers include caviar service, warm artisanal baguettes, a hand-cut beef tartare with house-made Kennebec potato chips and more. One of chef Fricaud’s most noteworthy starters is a fresh take on escargot, which boasts all of the classic, buttery flavors in a croquette-like form, eliminating the mess and work. “Everyone loves a proper escargot, but I wanted to serve something more elegant,” Fricaud tells Observer. “I decided to create a sort of cromesquis with the cheese, garlic and escargot. But underneath, we have the shell filled with creamy butter and herbs, and once you eat the cromesquis, you simply sip the juice from the shell.”
The menu boasts an entire handmade pasta section, with coastal-inspired recipes ranging from linguine vongole to spaghetti pomodoro. For meats, prime cuts, priced from $60 to $145, pair with housemade sauces like Béarnaise, black truffle beef jus and au poivre. The real menu highlight, however, is the signature Le Poulet Duo Poêlé and Braisé ($46), a chicken dish which is braised and sautéed before being plated alongside fluffy whipped potatoes.
“I’m also going to keep things fun for regulars by offering a few secret items,” Fricaud explains. “We need to have a burger because it’s a hotel restaurant, but it will be sacred and off-menu. If you decide to serve a burger in a sophisticated restaurant like La Monique, you need to make it the best in the world.” When I asked Fricaud for more inside info on the burger, specifically if it would be thick-cut or smash-style, he cheekily said, “It’s a secret! Come try it, and then you can spread the word in your second article.” I suppose I’ll just have to report back when the time comes.
Unsurprisingly, the curated wine list has a French focus, but it also includes bottles from Italy, Portugal and California. The cocktail menu takes a more playful approach. “We wanted to keep our cocktails on the feminine side,” Zardoni says. “We of course have some strong whiskey-based and bourbon beverages, but that’s not going to be our core.” The Coastal Muse is one of the most unique creations, featuring Grey Goose vodka, Cointreau, coconut clarified white cranberry, citric acid and light cherry foam. The tequila-forward Golden Sun boasts a tropical palate, with Luxardo Liqueur, passionfruit, watermelon and club soda. Looking for a new take on an espresso cocktail? Try The Bungalow—a blend of coffee bean-infused Zacapa 23, Averna, brûléed banana, cinnamon and cacao bitters. Similarly to the food menu, the cocktail list will change with the seasons, constantly ushering in new ingredients, fresh garnishes and fun flavor combos.
La Monique’s approach aims to provide guests with a sophisticated yet laid-back dining experience, for a touch of French cool in L.A. “I think this beautiful hotel has been missing something for a long time,” Zardoni tells Observer. Whether you’re a hotel guest on holiday or a longtime local eager to try something new in your neighborhood, La Monique is for everyone who appreciates art de vivre—the art of living.
La Monique will be open to the public for dinner and drinks starting October 12.
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