My first bite upon landing in Bergen, Norway, was airport pizza—most likely frozen before being reheated on one of those squeaky, trundling conveyor belt ovens. It had a preponderance of pepperoni on top, along with a few julienned slices of red pepper, and a hearty blanket of melty mozzarella. Was it the best slice I’ve ever had? No, of course not—I’m a New Yorker. But would it surprise you that eating such a slice was actually on my Norwegian food checklist?
Here’s a fun fact for your next cocktail party: Norwegians eat more frozen pizza than any other country on the planet, at a whopping 25 pounds per capita. Maybe it’s because their winters stretch almost interminably; maybe it’s because frozen pizza, objectively, is pretty delicious.
But it was a ranking I found quite shocking until I spent time this summer exploring the country’s second-largest city. Norwegian cuisine, it turns out, is pleasantly astonishing in many ways. And no place exemplifies the country’s culinary history and innovation quite like Bergen.
Perched on the west coast of the country, Bergen has been an international trading post since the 11th century. Today, it’s most well known for being the gateway to the fjords: those narrow inlets of sea bracketed by towering cliffs (a striking consequence of glacial erosion from millions of years ago). Especially during the high summer season, visitors flock here to use the area (population: just under 300,000) as a home base, then set out each morning by car or boat to explore famed passages like Nærøyfjord or Hardangerfjord.
And while the quiet majesty of the fjords cannot be overstated, travelers do themselves a great disservice if they ignore Bergen and its surroundings from a culinary perspective. Its maritime location and history as a trading port mean that for centuries, the city has been one of the most vibrant in Europe when it comes to food—at first from an agricultural and fishing perspective, and now with its culture of cafes, restaurants and bars that prize both Scandinavian technique and ingredients as well as those from the world over.
I visited this past August and September, and my timing was intentional: ideal weather for outdoor adventures, of course, and the best time to taste the late-season bounty of many prized Norwegian crops like apples and pears. To sample all that produce, my first stop in the region was actually just outside the city, to a hotel that I’d stumbled upon on Reddit called Solstrand Hotel & Bad (that last word signifying the presence of a spa and not something more nefarious), which is close to the area’s famed apple orchards and cideries in Ulvik.
But first, we explored the hotel itself, which is also known for its culinary program. After a day spent unkinking my travel-weary muscles in the resort’s indoor and outdoor pool circuit, my family and I sat down to eat at the hotel’s grand dining room, where the prix-fixe menu included Nordic-inflected savory options like deer sirloin and herb-baked trout. But we were really here for the dessert buffet, which rivals any in Vegas in terms of size, but certainly trumps those in terms of quality and flavor. I let my nine-year-old choose for us: she came back to the table balancing swirled passion fruit mousses, chocolate cakes stuffed with coffee cream, lemon cakes topped with prized local strawberries, and panna cottas punched up with a jewel-toned array of fruit compotes. Norway may not receive the same acclaim that some of its Scandinavian neighbors do for its food, but sampling my way through desserts that first night assured me it’s not for lack of innovative (and delicious) options.
The next day, rental car keys in hand, we explored the winding roads around Hardangerfjord, known for its striking crystalline waters as much as its orchards. The area has been producing apples and cider since the late 1800s and, as you’ll hear from many a producer as you travel through the Ulvik cider route, Hardanger cider is known as the champagne of the drink. The country is so proud of it, in fact, that the beverage was the first alcoholic product in Norway to be given a protected status. My favorite came from Syse Gard, a small, hillside operation with sweeping views of the surrounding hills and valleys, and plenty of cider by the glass or in sample flights.
After loading up the car with bottles to take home and plenty of rhubarb jam, we then drove into Bergen proper. Knowing we had limited time in the city itself between trips out to the fjords, I worked with travel company Scott Dunn to craft a one-day, culinary-focused itinerary. Our morning started with a private food tour, where we hit many of the city’s most buzzing markets and stands: a tasting of award-winning Norwegian cheese at food hall Mathallen (including the oddly sweet and nationally beloved Brunost or brown cheese); extra-long reindeer hot dogs at 3-Kroeneren, topped with crispy shallots, mustard and lingonberry sauce; and meaty crab claws at Dr. Wiesener, a former bathhouse that’s been converted into one of the city’s coolest pubs.
<img decoding="async" class="size-full-width wp-image-1606542" src="https://observer.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/NORDLANDBLOG.COM-FJORDNORWEGEN-ACTIVE-TOUR-2018-60481.jpg?quality=80&w=970" alt="" width="970" height="647" data-caption='Cornelius. <span class=”media-credit”>Sirko Trentsch Nordicsmedia</span>’>
We grabbed a quick snooze at our hotel, the minimalist Skostredet, and then dressed up for a boat ride out to Cornelius, one of the most famous seafood restaurants in all of Scandinavia (and also the basis for the restaurant in the horror flick The Menu. But only because of its remote location on a private island, not because of anything untoward that happens with its guests). Our tasting menu that night was “meteorological,” as our waitress told us, meaning that the dishes changed every day both according to the weather and what fishermen were able to catch that morning. Our unique meal included everything from trout to fried crab balls to skate, and I’m also pleased to report that every guest made it off the island in one piece.
We celebrated our last night in Bergen with a meal at Lysverket, a Michelin-starred modern Norwegian restaurant located inside the former headquarters of Bergen Lysverker, the power company. Run by chef Christopher Haatuft, the serene, modern space channels minimalist Scandinavian design, but the food is far from simple. Some of the most notable courses were pairings like razor clams with a bracing rhubarb and celery granita, or a pan-seared scallop served atop fresh noodles and a sofrito sauce. And, of course, we finished with plenty of subtly sweet, ruby-red Norwegian strawberries for dessert.
<img decoding="async" class="size-full-width wp-image-1606541" src="https://observer.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/FOTO_LYSVERKET_-BONJWING-LEE1.jpg?quality=80&w=970" alt="" width="970" height="1372" data-caption='Lysverket. <span class=”media-credit”>Bonjwing Lee</span>’>
While I didn’t manage to nab another slice of frozen pizza before we left, I am proud of how much of the city I was able to explore through its food, whether that was a street stand hot dog or langoustines at a white tablecloth spot. But there is much left to discover: much cheese to eat, ciders to drink and many more pizzas to microwave. I’m already planning my next trip.
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