Travel to the early 1960s at Nunu’s Tavern in Hillcrest

Should you duck into Nunu’s Tavern for some discreet day drinking, it will take a few minutes before your eyes can fully focus on the cherished mid-century modern style that defines the place.

Coming from sunlight into the bar’s dimly lit atmosphere also means you won’t be able to immediately recognize that certain friend or coworker who might be lounging over a second martini — perhaps the person who once flippantly told you that drinking before sunset isn’t normally their thing.

Nunu’s is a place where you could run into everyone you know or end up conversing with complete strangers.

It doesn’t matter if you’re planted at the bar or in a booth. The vibe is intimate, convivial, and non-judgmental.

The establishment has been around since 1962, when it operated under the name Cosmo’s. Several years later, a Portuguese fisherman took over and renamed it Nunu’s, which translates to “grandfather” throughout Portugal and Brazil.

Old photos of local fishermen on an inside wall pay tribute to San Diego’s thriving fishing community at the time.

In addition, an original decal of a compass encircling a tuna fish still greets patrons at the door as they enter the box-shaped structure.

Nunu’s current owner, Jon Stamatopoulos, who also runs the Turf Club in Golden Hill, essentially rescued the building from inevitable developers when he purchased the Hillcrest-area business in 2018.  

He gave the interior a heavy cleaning that led to a re-calibrated kitchen and new vinyl upholstery for the scalloped booths and swivel bar stools.

Exterior work included a fresh paint job and repairs to the establishment’s iconic, yellow signage. 

Also, just inside the entrance way is a wall embedded with rocks.

It’s a classic architectural element from the mid-twentieth century that has been respectfully preserved.

Improved culinary offerings

Stamatopoulos has improved the culinary offerings as well. 

Fresh fruit juices and trendy syrups factor into the cocktails these days. Although if you’re on the hunt for craft or domestic beer (available only in cans and bottles), the bar readily obliges. 

A lemon drop cocktail ordered by a sibling on a recent evening was commendably balanced. It wasn’t cloying or too tart. The citrus was fresh-squeezed, and the simple syrup was used judiciously. Better yet, the unspecified brand of vodka in the drink wasn’t skimpy.

As a fan of gin martinis, I usually request them made with trusted, smooth Bombay Sapphire.

Although out of curiosity during a midday lunch visit, I opted for the bar’s value option, which is Gordon’s Gin.

Despite the drink’s proper vermouth “rinse” and two meaty olives floating within, the cocktail tasted aggressively bitter. Hence, I’ll stick to my usual brand the next time.

While perusing the rather ambitious food menu, my companion chose a generous glass of house-made sangria.

Its red wine base (likely zinfandel) is enhanced with triple sec and brandy. Floating on top was a maraschino cherry and a fat slice of fresh orange. We both agreed, the concoction was cheerfully sweet and highly drinkable.

Meal options abound

There are plenty of meal options to quell your booze intake.

Stamatopoulos summarizes the food as “good, basic pub grub,” referring in part to the unexpected availability of pork ribs sold in quarter or half racks. They sell for $12 and $21.75, respectively — not bad in this era of soaring food prices.

The menu extends to burgers using meat that is never frozen; chicken wings served with house-made blue cheese dressing; BLT and chicken club sandwiches; all-beef hot dogs, and more.

I’ve indulged so far in a traditional patty melt burger. The meat was crowned with Swiss cheese and grilled onions, and fitted between two slices of grilled rye bread that was heavily buttered. 

A bite of pulled pork sandwich I snatched from my companion’s plate was as good as any you’d find in a reputable barbecue joint. The meat was juicy with mild smokiness. The coleslaw topping was fresh and crispy. And the brioche bun was tall and springy. 

French fries mantled with house-made chili and velvety cheese sauce were splendid, especially given that the spuds stayed miraculously crisp beneath the toppings.

Crunchiness was also retained in an order of battered chicken tenders. We ordered them during my evening visit through an affable waiter named Mike, who told us that “about four” tenders come in the basket. We lucked out and received five big ones. Flavorful blue cheese and ranch dressing on the side kept us dipping away.

For the most part, Nunu’s remains suspended in time despite its modest upgrades. Yet it attracts all generations of legal-age drinkers.

“The later you go, the younger the crowd,” Stamatopoulos pointed out, while adding that the bar is a favorite among restaurant-industry people and Old Globe cast members, and theater goers.

It is generally a sanctuary for those choosing to escape the bustle of downtown and Hillcrest, since it sits between the two.

Nunu’s bar and kitchen hours differ from each other. The bar opens at 5 p.m., Mondays and Tuesdays; at 2 p.m. Wednesdays and Thursdays; and at noon on Friday through Sunday. It closes at 2 a.m. each day.

The kitchen opens at 5 p.m. Monday through Thursday, and at noon Friday through Sunday. It operates until 12:30 a.m. each day.